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DIY - Stripped Ottoman

My latest project...

BEFORE

 

AFTER

  

From an ottoman into a coffee table.

Taking inspiration from Thomas Wold I deconstructed this ugly ottoman. I wanted to change this flowery puffy mess into something stripped down and a bit industrial. 

I tore all of the fabric and stuffing off and was left with a box (it opens up by the way, for storage), made from very cheap wood. I liked the wood and it's grain, I liked the roughness of it. Once I removed the foam pad from the top, I was left with a lid with three holes. I painted leftover MDF a deep red and my pops cut it into three pieces to fit underneath the lid. I then screwed the three panels to the underside of the lid.

The box, once stripped, was full of imperfections and pencil marks. I liked that very much and wanted to add something extra to make it look even more like a shipping crate. I cut stencils from printer paper and stenciled the numbers, letters and symbols onto the box with regular black acrylic paint.

I then varnished everything twice with a Satin Oil-Based Poly. It deepened the color of the wood and keeps the paint protected. Next I used upholstery nails to add a bit of metal and lastly screwed in the new legs.  

Thanks for looking!

Michael Arras

I just discovered Michael Arras on Etsy and he's something fabulous.

A little something about Michael Arras from Etsy..."I received a Bachelor of Fine Arts degree at Oregon College of Art & Craft in 2007, and though I'd spent three years focusing on woodworking, my final thesis project consisted of several paintings. The following summer, however, I found myself obsessed with furniture design. I set up a small woodshop in my home, and started bringing my furniture sketches to life.

My goal is to make unique, well-crafted furniture at an affordable price. Keeping the construction methods simple without sacrificing quality, I strive to find a balance between high-end studio-furniture and mass-produced works. The challenge of working in this middle-ground keeps me inspired, and I'm driven to constantly simplify and beautify my designs."  

Claire's Furniture Facelifts

Just found these great before/afters from Two C's in a Pod. Check out the subtle stencils on the white tables.

BEFORE

AFTER

BEFORE

AFTER

WHITE TABLES

Button Sidetable - How to

I think this table redo is pretty interesting (found it on craftster). It's pretty, but also innovative. To put the buttons under resin is a very professional way to go, there is definitely lots of inpiration to be had here. Scroll down for directions.

Creatrix Onceupon shares her table's story and how to make one yourself...

If I were going to write an article for a craft magazine about this project, this is how it would go:

One Saturday afternoon, at a yard sale, I had one of those moments. One of those moments when the heavens parted and a ray of sunshine fell on an item I just couldn't leave behind. Sometimes this happens to me at yard sales.

This particular ray fell on a small side table, about knee-high, with angled legs and a slightly recessed top. After some smart bargaining, the table went home with me for the low, low price of $5.

My next step was to start combing ebay for buttons. Buttons can be purchased in bulk lots for between five and twenty dollars, plus shipping. I ordered two bulk batches for a total of 1600+ buttons in a green and white mix. Always order more than you think you’ll need for a project like this. The table I was working with had about 2 sq feet of surface area and I had around 100 buttons when I finished.

When you’ve picked a color scheme for your buttons, and you are waiting on them to arrive, take the time to sand and paint your table. I used a white semi-gloss spray paint and applied three thin coats. Thin coats are always better!

Once the paint is dry and your buttons are in hand, it’s time to start applying the buttons. I used a basic tacky craft glue to affix my buttons. Spread a thin layer of glue on your surface and start applying your buttons. Nestle them up close to each other, but don’t go too crazy. It’s easy to get a bit obsessive with this sort of project but the random spacing is part of the charm of the finished object. Make sure your buttons, if you are using a table with a recessed top, do not rise above the top of the lip that goes around the edge of the table. Snip the shanks off of any buttons that do not have flat backs.

It makes life a lot easier if you start at the corners and work your way in to the middle. Cover small areas at a time and take breaks if you start to feel a little crazy.

When you have covered the surface of your table with buttons, allow the glue to dry at least overnight. The glue must be totally dry before you move on to pouring your resin.

Resin can be a little tricky to track down locally. Try your major craft stores and home improvement stores. You are looking for casting resin, not fiberglass resin. I use a brand called Envirotex because it is super easy to mix and use.

You’re going to need resin, catalyst (sold as part of the Envirotex kit), two containers, and a mixing stick. Add you resin and catalyst in equal parts (or according to the directions that came with your kit) to one of the containers and mix vigorously, as if you were mixing cake batter. Because it is essential for the resin and catalyst to thoroughly mix, pour the mixture of resin and catalyst from one container into the other. Use your mixing stick to continue vigorous stirring. After about a minute, you should be ready to pour.

Ideally, you will pour your resin in thin layers (just like with spray paint, thin layers are better with resin, too). Don’t pour layers that are more than 1/8 of an inch thick – you’ll wind up with improperly cured resin and a lot more air bubbles.

Make sure, as you pour the first layer, that you use your mixing stick to spread the resin out like cake frosting – just don’t lick the spoon. Air bubbles will begin to rise to the surface. As they reach the surface, blow on them. The carbon dioxide in your breath will help release the bubbles. Just be careful not to inhale the fumes.

Allow your resin to set for a few hours. The setting time depends on temperature and humidity. Hot, dry climates will need less time than cool, damp ones. It isn’t fair, but it is true. When your first layer has set, pour a second layer. Continue this process of pouring layers and allowing them to set until your resin is at the level you desire.

Once you have all of your resin poured, allow the table top to cure for 72 hours. When you’re done waiting – which is the most difficult part of this project – you will have a beautiful and level table top encasing a colorful array of buttons. A one of a kind side table is all yours! Now put it to good use.

DIY - Glossy Mirrored Side Table

BEFORE

AFTER

WITHOUT DECORATION

I found this side table near a dumpster and took it home. It was a bit broken and had many water rings on the surface. I sanded it down and pondered what to do with it. If the wood is good I don't usually prefer to paint over it, and the wood was good, but it just didn't call out to be stained. Painting it white was the only thing that felt right.

So I painted, and painted, and varnished, and then glued the little buttons to the rim, then painted some more. After all that I bought car mirrors, and glued them to the table, I felt I needed texture. But I'm still not sure I like it.