My Weblog

Knobs instead of Handles

Why oh why did I never think of this! Why was I always held back by convention? If a dresser had a handle, I would replace it with a handle, if it previously had a knob, then of course I would change it over to a new knob! But look what replacing handles with knobs does for a dresser!

Jess from Make Under My Life implemented this simple yet brilliant idea, and look what she got! It turned a relatively plain dresser into visual stimulation.

DIY - Powder Coated Iron Pipe Candleholder

Ever wanted to powder coat something yourself? Here's a great DIY way to accomplish just that.

The tutorial at Instructables.

BEFORE

AFTER

 

From This to That

This is so beautiful. Who would have thought that something as simple and as ugly as an egg carton could become something so lovely. Project from Esprit Cabane.

Button Sidetable - How to

I think this table redo is pretty interesting (found it on craftster). It's pretty, but also innovative. To put the buttons under resin is a very professional way to go, there is definitely lots of inpiration to be had here. Scroll down for directions.

Creatrix Onceupon shares her table's story and how to make one yourself...

If I were going to write an article for a craft magazine about this project, this is how it would go:

One Saturday afternoon, at a yard sale, I had one of those moments. One of those moments when the heavens parted and a ray of sunshine fell on an item I just couldn't leave behind. Sometimes this happens to me at yard sales.

This particular ray fell on a small side table, about knee-high, with angled legs and a slightly recessed top. After some smart bargaining, the table went home with me for the low, low price of $5.

My next step was to start combing ebay for buttons. Buttons can be purchased in bulk lots for between five and twenty dollars, plus shipping. I ordered two bulk batches for a total of 1600+ buttons in a green and white mix. Always order more than you think you’ll need for a project like this. The table I was working with had about 2 sq feet of surface area and I had around 100 buttons when I finished.

When you’ve picked a color scheme for your buttons, and you are waiting on them to arrive, take the time to sand and paint your table. I used a white semi-gloss spray paint and applied three thin coats. Thin coats are always better!

Once the paint is dry and your buttons are in hand, it’s time to start applying the buttons. I used a basic tacky craft glue to affix my buttons. Spread a thin layer of glue on your surface and start applying your buttons. Nestle them up close to each other, but don’t go too crazy. It’s easy to get a bit obsessive with this sort of project but the random spacing is part of the charm of the finished object. Make sure your buttons, if you are using a table with a recessed top, do not rise above the top of the lip that goes around the edge of the table. Snip the shanks off of any buttons that do not have flat backs.

It makes life a lot easier if you start at the corners and work your way in to the middle. Cover small areas at a time and take breaks if you start to feel a little crazy.

When you have covered the surface of your table with buttons, allow the glue to dry at least overnight. The glue must be totally dry before you move on to pouring your resin.

Resin can be a little tricky to track down locally. Try your major craft stores and home improvement stores. You are looking for casting resin, not fiberglass resin. I use a brand called Envirotex because it is super easy to mix and use.

You’re going to need resin, catalyst (sold as part of the Envirotex kit), two containers, and a mixing stick. Add you resin and catalyst in equal parts (or according to the directions that came with your kit) to one of the containers and mix vigorously, as if you were mixing cake batter. Because it is essential for the resin and catalyst to thoroughly mix, pour the mixture of resin and catalyst from one container into the other. Use your mixing stick to continue vigorous stirring. After about a minute, you should be ready to pour.

Ideally, you will pour your resin in thin layers (just like with spray paint, thin layers are better with resin, too). Don’t pour layers that are more than 1/8 of an inch thick – you’ll wind up with improperly cured resin and a lot more air bubbles.

Make sure, as you pour the first layer, that you use your mixing stick to spread the resin out like cake frosting – just don’t lick the spoon. Air bubbles will begin to rise to the surface. As they reach the surface, blow on them. The carbon dioxide in your breath will help release the bubbles. Just be careful not to inhale the fumes.

Allow your resin to set for a few hours. The setting time depends on temperature and humidity. Hot, dry climates will need less time than cool, damp ones. It isn’t fair, but it is true. When your first layer has set, pour a second layer. Continue this process of pouring layers and allowing them to set until your resin is at the level you desire.

Once you have all of your resin poured, allow the table top to cure for 72 hours. When you’re done waiting – which is the most difficult part of this project – you will have a beautiful and level table top encasing a colorful array of buttons. A one of a kind side table is all yours! Now put it to good use.

How To - Doily Racerback

I found this gorgeous and ingenious project and had to post it here. Craft Chi is the master designer, check her out.

I took this screenprinting test-shirt and refashioned it into a cute racerback using 99-cent doilies from Joann’s. I recommend using these inexpensive doilies to practice before using your pretty, vintage handmade doilies from the antique store. Although, admittedly they would look much better.

Here’s how I made it:

Materials:

Tee shirt

Tank top (to use as a pattern)

Doilies

Standard sewing stuff

Copy Tank Top pattern
First, I just laid a plain white tank top over my tee shirt, pinned it to keep it from sliding around and traced around it with a Sharpie to copy the pattern.

Cut around the marked lines leaving a 1/2 inch seam allowance.

 

Lay the doilies out in a pattern you like. Make sure that the doilies overlap enough to give the shirt stability.

Attach the doilies to eachother. Sew the doilies to eachother (NOT TO THE SHIRT) where they overlap. I recommend using a button stitch (individual stitch that is repeated several times in the same spot). Tie each stitch off and then start at another point rather than trying to do blanket stitch which would cause the doilies to bunch up.

Cut the shirt open at the shoulders. This will allow you to get the shirt into your sewing machine and sew around the doilies a bit easier.

Pin the strung-together doilies onto the back of the tee to hold them place.

Sew the top and bottom of the larger doily piece. Sew as if the doilies were one big, oddly shaped doily (don’t sew each individual doily). I used a zig-zag stitch to secure it really well. Leave the sides (where the sleeves are) open.

Here’s what the back of the shirt looks like when you are done sewing. **Note that I sewed only at the top and bottom. Not in the middle and not down the sides.

Cut away the fabric behind the doilies. Insert your scissors in-between the doilies and the t-shirt and cut away the excess fabric.

Sew the shoulder seams back together. Reattach at the shoulders by turning the shirt inside out, pinning and sewing.

Finish arm holes. Fold the arm hole seams in about 1/2-inch, pin and sew using a zig-zag stitch. You can choose to fold the the doilies back or not. Just don’t trim the doilies or they will unravel.

Try it on! You may need to make adjustments by pinching and pinning (and sewing) the underarm area. Once you have sewed it so that it fits to your liking you can wear loud and proud!